Back in I attended the Home Entertainment Show with my father. We had the intent to build the best speakers that we possibly could. We listened to just about every manufacturers flagship model. I recognized all of the drivers from the DIY catalogs, wondering which one would reign supreme. At the end of the day, after the votes were in, we both selected the JM Labs Grande Utopia's as our favorite model, hands down. Since then, it's been widely agreed that the Grande Utopia are among the best sounding home audio speakers in the world.
JM Labs uses affiliate company Focal brand drivers. Now here's where it gets interesting That, my fellow Instructables users, is why I think everyone should build their own speakers. Before embarking on a DIY speaker building journey, take some time to familiarize yourself with the process this Instructable should cover that , and also poke around sites that showcase DIY speaker builders work, designs, and the companies that distribute the best components in the U.
There's a wide range of designs, driver options and technologies to learn about and choose from. Retailers: Parts Express is great for entry level drivers and is also a great supplier of all kinds of speaker building accessories. Madisound has a wide range of products, from hi-fi components to complete kits that even include pre-assembled cabinets. Zalytron is the primary US dealer for the world renowned Focal brand drivers and offers everything from budget kits for the money conscious builder, to top-of-the-line audiophile kits that rival the industry's best speakers.
Once you've selected your drivers it's time to begin planning out the cabinet. Work with your component provider to choose a box design that best matches your specific components. If you're building a kit, a box design should have come along with your drivers and crossover plans. DIY speaker builders can't make their own drivers very easily, but we do build our own speaker cabinets, so that's where we tinker, innovate, build with care, and shine.
As a result, it's the cabinet design and execution that we spend the most time on. Cabinet design decisions start at the basics, like the volume of the cabinet, whether it will be sealed or ported, how much bracing the cabinet needs, what thickness material it should be made out of and what height the tweeter should be mounted at so that it's in line with the listeners ears.
From there, it progresses to more complex and acoustic decisions like rounding over the corners to reduce interference, building elaborate horn structures to amplify the sound, using exotic materials to further dampen resonant frequencies, line arrays to gain efficiency, mounting drivers at different distances from the listener to accommodate for the fact that high frequencies travel slightly faster than low frequencies, and eliminating parallel faces - the surfaces that create resonant frequencies, by building poly-faceted cabinets, or better, spheres, rather than the standard rectangular cabinet.
That being said, the vast majority of DIY speaker builders start with a straightforward, rectangular cabinet design that even though lacks the bells and whistles, and highly engineered elements listed above, still sounds fantastic. An example of a MTM bookshelf speaker speaker design appears below from Zalytron. Many contractors use it as a building material in humid climates, and it's widely used to make counter tops.
It's not stocked in every lumberyard, but it can be special ordered. If your local lumber yard can't find a source for it, or if you don't want to pay the higher price for it, MDF is the next building material of choice. Avoid plywood, hardwoods, OSB, strand board, and light density fiber boards if possible. The speaker cabinets should be as sonically dead as possible. That means heavy, thick-walled, and well constructed. Ideally the entire cabinet should be built out of 1.
In reality, I've only done a handful of speakers that were that thick due to the cost and weight. The industry standard is a 1. Zalytron builds their cabinets to these same specifications. Many other companies do not. Look closely to see what's included in your specific kit if your ordering one that has the cabinet included. Plan out your speakers on paper and create a cutting diagram based upon the raw 4' x 8' sheets.
Transfer your cutting diagram onto the sheets themselves and then begin to break them down, making the biggest cuts first. Work the large sheets down into small manageable panels and cut things to their exact size.
When cutting like-sized speaker panels make all of your same-sized-passes on the table saw at the same time, without moving the fence, to ensure that parallel panels will be exactly the same size. Once all of your panels are cut, check and then recheck your measurements. If the speaker cabinets are going to be square, they've got to start with perfectly cut panels, otherwise they just won't ever line up correctly.
As shown in the cabinet design in step 5, the basic speaker cabinet contains supports on the inside to further strengthen and sonically dampen the exterior walls. Internal support panels should be located in parts of the speaker that are closest to the woofers, and anywhere that the cabinet may need reinforcement, like the midpoint of the sides. The tower speakers have two internal supports, while the bookshelf speakers have only one. Trace a simple pattern of circles or squares onto the support panels and use a drill with a large drill bit to create a starter hole for your jig saw.
Then, use the jig saw to connect the drill holes and trace the path of your cutout. The picture set below ends with the brace for the subwoofer, so it's a bit bigger and has a larger cutout for the larger subwoofer driver. Like most professional kitchen cabinet makers, I use biscuit joints to hold my speaker cabinets together.
They easily and perfectly align adjacent faces, are quick to cut and install, and are super strong. First, mark adjacent surfaces with a pattern or code of your choosing. I simply assemble the speaker panels into the correct formation and mark adjacent sides with an "a", "b", "c", or "circle", "square", "triangle" code and so on.
I then give them a little tick mark crossing onto both sides where I'll alight the biscuit joiner to make the plunge, and draw a long line on the face that will get a groove cut into it, so that I don't get lost and cut into the wrong face. See the secondary photos below to see what I mean. With the faces all marked up, I clamp the boards down to the table and begin cutting slots with the biscuit joiner. I generally install two biscuits per joint on the speaker cabinets. This part is a bit tedious, because there are many joints and adjoining faces, but it's worth it when you go to glue because things will line up really well.
I find messing around with screws while trying to glue and clamp the cabinets together is just a bit clumsy and certainly more difficult to square up. The first part of the cabinet to be assembled are the sides, top and bottom. The front and back go on later. Before gluing up the cabinets I lay everything that I'm going to need out on a large flat level surface. Once the glue bead gets laid down, the clocks ticking, so you'll want to move with some speed and efficiency.
Having an extra set of hands for the step really helps, but it's not a necessity. Lay a thin bead of high quality wood glue I like Titebond myself along the edges of all adjacent sides. Be sure to spread extra glue inside the holes for the biscuits. Insert the biscuits into the slots, being sure to push them all the way down.
Any biscuits that don't easily fit into the slot should be discarded and swapped for a new biscuit--sometimes the biscuits swell slightly due to moisture and humidity. With the biscuits in place and glue on all of the adjoining surfaces, it's time to assemble.
Join edges to faces and construct the cabinet. I use many many clamps to pull the cabinet tightly together and apply uniform even pressure to the joints. With the edges glued and the clamps loosely in place, now's the time to square everything up. Using a tape measure and the clamps, measure the diagonal from corner to corner of the square you've just created and adjust the clamps until they are equal.
This means that the box is perfectly square. See the photos below. Before the glue sets up, it's also a good time to make all of the panels flush with each other.
The D Center features the same drive units, but in a horizontal design to better suit placement below a television of behind a transparent screen. This model is designed as a two-way speaker with a midrange and soft dome tweeter in a versatile square cabinet.
The units are mounted close together for even radiation. The D-5 IC features an angled, adjustable tweeter. With the square cabinet, the sound can be beamed towards the listening area when used as height or top speakers for immersive audio setups.
This makes positioning the speakers in front, at the sides or behind the listeners more easy. These type of speakers are specifically designed for installations reduces floor and ceiling reflections are needed. They can disperse a uniform sound for the best sound experience. This is usually the case with longer and wider listening areas. Four LS modules combined create a line source, providing a speaker with high resolution, high dynamic range and high sensitivity.
The BW is a new boundary woofer which eschews any mention of the description 'subwoofer' since its frequency response is wider than one normally associated with the nomenclature - though a subwoofer is essentially what it is. In order to deliver a defined sound whatever the environment or installation conditions, the D and D Center come with their own loudspeaker enclosures, removing variation in the sound profile caused by inconsistencies in after-market backbox or closed wall cavities.
The two speakers are a full range design with two mm passive woofers, a mm midrange driver with a 38mm voice coil and vented magnet, plus a 28mm soft dome tweeter. Both models are able to reach down to 50Hz, so a subwoofer is not always necessary in smaller home cinema setups, and a wall-fixing mechanism with mounting legs ensures straight forward in-wall installation. The smaller D-5 is also a two-way speaker and features similar drivers 25mm soft dome tweeter and mm mid range driver to the larger D but loses the two passive woofers with a commensurate lower response of around 80Hz.
However, the reduction in size means the versatility of the D-5 is increased such that it can still be used in the front LCR array or as a surround speaker and, of course, adding a subwoofer will reinstate the ultra low end. For those looking for the full immersive audio experience, the D-5 IC is designed for in-ceiling or wall-mounting at height and features an angled, adjustable tweeter to beam the sound towards the listening area. Again, the D-5 and D-5 IC come with their own pre-mounted loudspeaker enclosures for audio consistency and all members of the Discreet range are finished in matte black and come with a white magnetic grille.
For larger home theatre environments, Lyngdorf has introduced the LS speaker module which features four mm midrange drivers with light aluminum cones, 25mm voice coils and powerful vented magnets, and complemented these with eight 25mm soft dome tweeters. For delivering consistent, effective and immersive audio to audiences in bigger auditoriums, Lyngdorf recommends four modules stacked in a vertical array to create a line source of 16 mid range drivers and 32 tweeters.
There are three different LS models with the LS Left and LS Right beaming sound in towards the listening area and the LS Center featuring centre mounted tweeters leading to a wider sound dispersion. Home Installation. Their work is their passion and for jobs big or small, simple or complex, there's no better way to go. For high-quality, professional installations that are guaranteed for life, choose Car Toys. Visit a store today.
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